I don't think I have tasted a more refined Monfortino than the 2008. The aromatics alone are pure seduction. Weightless, refined and silky on the palate, the 2008 is all about finesse rather than power. Sweet cherry, plum, rose petal, lavender, dried herbs and spices are all beautifully delineated in the glass, but it is the wine's soaring personality that makes the deepest impression. Two thousand eight is an unusual year. An unexpected cold snap arrived in late October that extended the season while presenting the conditions for the grapes to develop extraordinary perfume. This fruit was harvested on October 31 and November 1, late even by Conterno's standards. The 2008 spent six years in barrel (rather than seven) and therefore one additional year in bottle before being released. I would not be surprised if Conterno makes the same decision for some vintages again in the future. The 2008 Monfortino is pure seduction.

 | Robert Parker